Avoid Fake AntiquesBy

Avoid Fake Antiques
By Malcolm Katt
Special to TheStreet.com8/20/2007 10:46 AM EDTURL: http://www.thestreet.com/funds/toponepercent/10374954.html

Is It a Real McCoy?
Two words describe the antiques and collectibles market -- caveat emptor (let the buyer beware). As a collector, you must be wary of fakes and reproductions. Many items are made to deceive, and even the most knowledgeable collectors can get fooled. So before you take out that wallet, ask yourself if you can recognize the real deal in an antique or collectible you're eyeing -- or even if you know the difference between a fake and a reproduction. And keep in mind, even the experts can be fooled. I've collected Japanese WWII militaria for over 20 years, and recently purchased a rare Imperial Japanese Navy petty officer's cap that seemed authentic in every way, from the label with handwritten owner's name properly sewn on the inside lining and the correct rank patch on the front of the cap.
After getting it home and holding it under a black light, however, I noticed the thread around the label and rank patch glowed. Many modern fibers like rayon and polyester -- which make up today's sewing tread -- will turn fluorescent under a black light. The cap was old but obviously the label and rank patch were added later, making its value considerably less.
An Important Distinction
A fake, like the officer's cap, is deliberately made to deceive buyers and looks similar to an authentic piece, with analogous markings and price. It may be made by a company other than the stated manufacturer, and at a later period.
A reproduction, on the other hand, looks similar to a real piece but is not masquerading as an original. It isn't falsely aged to appear to be from an earlier time period, and it will bear the new manufacturer's mark. It also should be quite a bit cheaper and easier to find than the real thing.
A pair of reproduction bronze cannons, manufactured for the Dutch East India Company (with a mark of VOC on each cannon), supposedly dating from the mid-1700s sold online for $15,000 just this past month. Their worth as reproductions is about $5,000 -- and had they been genuine, the price would be closer to $50,000.
A genuine McCoy jardiniere -- a large decorative stand or pot for plants -- with pedestal made in the 1920s in the Roseville, Ohio, factory is worth about $325. A reproduction made in the 1950s has a value of about $25, while a fake is virtually worthless to a collector.
So how can you tell if the antique or collectible you're going to purchase is the real McCoy?
Educate Yourself
The best defense against being fooled by fakes and reproductions is acquiring as much knowledge as you can about your particular area of interest.
An expression I once heard from a long-time dealer, "Buy with your heart, but always buy smart," makes sense to me. If you can recognize authentic makers' marks and designs, and are familiar with the correct colors and patterns of the time period you collect, you're much less likely to be fooled.
Invest in some guidebooks on items you hope to collect -- the values of items in the books may fluctuate from year to year, but learning proper identification is priceless.
One must-have is the Antique Trader Guide to Fakes & Reproductions by Mark Chervenka, a well-known authority on reproductions. This book, with 800 color photographs of original pieces and fakes, is an excellent guide to spotting the telltale signs of fakes across various fields: glass, pottery, folk art, furniture, marbles, china and porcelain, jewelry, silver and toys. The section on scientific instruments alone is worth the price of the book -- it tells you how to figure out whether a piece is old or new (tip: just look for hidden plastic parts).
Likewise, get to know the recognized experts in you field of collecting and learn from them, whether through their books or Web sites. Visit antiques and collectibles shows as well as dealer's shops, where you can talk to the experts and glean how to spot fakes and reproductions.
Or join a collectors club that specializes in your area of interest, taking advantage of members' expertise by attending meetings and club conventions.
Another good venue for learning is at auction previews, where you can actually handle the object before the sale. Make notes in the sales catalog about characteristics of items you collect so you can research them further. Museums are also a wealth of information, enabling you to view the real thing.
Finally, supplement these traditional paths with the latest information. Repronews, an online database of fakes and reproductions, has continuous updates on the latest ersatz items as they are discovered, as well as a database of past articles. Hundreds of categories are covered, ranging from apothecary jars and Civil War swords to trade signs and yo-yos. Articles are researched in consultation with leading collectors, dealers, clubs and institutions.
Another online resource is Reproalert, an extensive list of other fake and reproduction Internet sites relating to items from advertising and character timepieces, art prints, toys and trading cards.
Always Know Your Dealer
The easiest way to avoid acquiring a fake antique or collectible is to buy only from a reputable dealer.
At the Christie Antique Fair near Dundas, Ontario, I once ignored this advice and paid $345 for a butterfly banner stone, a beautifully smooth rock with an striking color pattern. I was told this Native American relic was 3,000 to 5,000 years old.
I later took my purchase to Don Ellis, who operates a gallery in that specializes in North American native artifacts. Ellis told me that a genuine banded-slate banner stone could fetch as much as $10,000 on the market; mine, he said, was nothing more than a painted rock, dating back possibly to 1970 or even the late 1990s. The value? $50.
Always check for seller certification. Membership in the Antiques Dealers' Association of America, for instance, will ensure that you're purchasing from professional antiques dealers who are required to guarantee their merchandise, in writing on a sales slip, stating approximate age, origin, condition and restoration, if any, of all pieces they sell.
If you're just getting started on your collection, buying from an accredited dealer is preferable. Although eBay (EBAY) may be tempting, you cannot personally examine an item and must depend on the descriptions and photos provided by the seller. Especially if the seller's policy is "all sales final," it's usually not worth getting involved.
If an online seller has a reasonable no-hassle return policy, however -- so that you can examine the item and compare it to genuine examples in reference books or other resources -- you could take the chance.

Armed with all your careful research, you might just find a bargain on an antique or collectible at a flea market, garage sale or online. Keep your eyes open.